Baffles Finally Explained!

Interesting, the Pan America that I have, when fitted with a Vance and Hines muffler improves the power significantly below 5,000rpm and above, then they advertise with a dyno curve comparing the V&H muffler to a standard muffler, and there is a significant jump in the low end and upper end power, that is noticeable when riding, in fact fitting the standard muffler, I notice I was revving 500rpm high to get the same feel in acceleration. Then the Pan Am is quite a different bike from yours.
I also have a 1988 Lowrider with hot cam, big replacement carb and some V&H shotgun style pipes (they have a cleaver tube like baffle in the pipe, so it looks like a straight out pipe), I know when I fit the standard pipes and muffler, it kills the power and torque on that bike. Then it is an old bike with a sidecar and it gets the same economy as my old Commodore. Doesn't compare to your bike either really.

Exhaust Reversion, its the moment where the pressure of the exhaust gasses in the pipe drops to the point where the outside air pressure causes the exhaust to reverse and you catch volume of waste air in your cylinder before the exhaust valve has a chance to close. This causes a lower volume of charged air to be pulled through the intake valve and lowers your toque and power.

Thats my understanding of it. Baffles etc help slow the reversion air to lower this problem.

Could not see the link to the other video you mentioned, thanks

Do you experience high idling on your bike before putting on the lollipop?

With the slip on’s installed, did you have the stage 1 fuel map installed from Indian? The increased flow from the mufflers may require different fuel inputs to retain power across all parts of the RPM range.

Was a fuel mix adjustment necessary when you installed the Rineharts mate? I’m researching new slip ons for my ‘23 CDH and am leaning toward Rineharts just based on your experience. Is there another type of slip on you would recommend alongside your Rinehart setup?

Baffles are baffling 😂

It is all about tuning the different lengths of the parts that make up the exhaust system, For instance in the early 1970's with Yamaha TZ 350's one trick that helped both power and noise was to make the stinger section extend between two to three inches past the visible weld joining it to the convergent cone into the expansion chamber.
In a similar way I have made V rod straight thru looking two and a quarter inch OD pipes that had an absorbtion type baffle about a third of the way down the pipe where my math said it would meet the reverse sonic waves at the optimal point worked great made good even power on the dyno was not too loud and looked the part bike tech since 1972 you hopefully learn some things in that time

Paul, off topic but did you ever test ride the 101 scout? Video?

The fun stuff starts when one calculates the exhaust length taking into consideration the cam lift, duration and overlap, not. Lol.