NO MORE BURNT OUT SHOWER ISOLATORS

Mate, absolute top video. 18 years experience right there. Keep up the great work, really appreciated!

Used a 40a contactor & a 24/7 digital timer like used for immersion heater to switch on/off dumb EV charger off peak
(digital timer is 16a max, by itself might be ok for 13a granny 3 pin charger but not 32a wall charger)
So the digital timer became your switch/control circuit, to then energise 40a contactor to charge EV off peak.
Yes can config charge schedules in app/car, but this circuit will charge any EV off peak without further configuration or syncing different car to smart charger app.
Wire to a 32a commando socket (switched interlock) & then plug in almost any device to operate off peak with timer & 40a contactor

Wireless switch is a clever idea though...
It would enable the device to be remotely isolated/controlled within house, preventing anybody else using said device

I tip my hat sir

Great video just a question back when I fitted our shower the uk regs said the switch has to have a live indicator either red paint or a light in the switch?

Ps I leave ours on all the time

I thought it was a grow board at first glance 😂 cracking idea mate

If you use a double or triple-row consumer unit, you can reserve an entire row for additional items such as contactors or bell transformers. This means you can avoid any extra enclosures and all of the equipment is located centrally. You can use the same setup for your oven/hob and you just have a single uninterrupted cable out to each load.

brilliant

You never said the A1 and A2 230v coil connections if taken of the shower room circuit must be through a 6A RCBO and not through a fuse or MCB also your contactor shower supply must also be through an RCBO not a 45A MCB or was your video just for sparks I think you would get a lot of Diyers trying that Cheers

If you use Hager isolators for showers or other high load equipment and it’s installed correctly, terminals tight and cables addressed correctly, it will last a long time. However you fit a click or MK shower pull switch, you’ll be luck if it lasts a year as the quality is so shit! I never use click

Brilliant idea mate
But when it comes to testing to the end point eg the shower the contactor will have to be bypassed. I was taught that r1+r2 needs to be measured at the end point. I remove ovens in this respect to check that the last part of the circuit is ok (ins res & r1+r2)
Quinnetic switch is a great idea too which I might try but beside the consumer unit as if it’s hidden and the boards not marked another electrician will struggle to find it.
Big thumbs up from me 😊

shower pull cords are a nightmare 😂youv got a good idea there

What a great idea, never thought of it before but perfect for getting rid of those pesky shower pull cords! Personally always used two gang size 45amp switch with 47mm back box outside the bathroom when doing new installs and never had any issues……but pull cords, blimey how many have we all been out to, even when fitted properly with tight connections they just don’t last!

Great idea.

Nice idea, BUT the customer will complain of the noise when the contactor activates (In or out) it also puts the price up too much. (Box, contactor, DIN rail, time to assemble it, no fused down for the switch) As I said, nice idea, but not worth the grief.

Great video, just replaced a shower switch for the second time, know what I'm doing next time 😊

Like this good idea

I take it the shower circuit and the chosen lighting circuit have to be on the same RCD ?

Great until the contacts weld shut, no neon indicator to know its happened either.

Did this with a fusebox 4 module C/U in the loft, there 63 amp contactor is two pole 💘

The best way to stop a shower pull cord switch from becoming thermally damaged is to buy a good quality one and torque the connections correctly. Simple.

love it, never thought of using the a contractor for shower, hate the shower switch. you would have thought manufacturers would have developed something better for the termination and switch of the larger conductors by no

Is there anything in this bloody world , some people wont moan about , ,ffs . A click from a contactor ....does my effin head in 😮

Great job mate.

Not worth the extra work and cost , the 45 or 50 amp pull switch doesn’t need to be switched off after every use of the shower .

Where's the earth tags and earth cable CPC on the glands as there missing as the cores are already connected 😂

What a great easy solution to a pain in the arse connecting the 10 mil to a pull cord, great video as always 👍

Had so many shower switches burn out even quality mk ones.

Great little video, really cleared a few things up 👍🙏

What brand/supplier are those DIN Rail Terminal blocks from?

Great video... i wish i do these sort of works day in day out...

Could u pls tell me make and model

Excellent idea,.
The only thing that's missing vs a traditional 45a pull switch is the neon or flag indicator showing off or on for the user,.. maybe something to work on...
But , yes, fabulous idea.
Cheers

a good option but if the switch gets damaged there is another issue

Thats replacing one potential issue with multiple others isnt it?

just so pricy doing this though

So would you mount that next to the light switch?or in the same position youd mount the isolator? I know you say connect with the light switch,but what if the client doesn't want it to come on like that and wants it separate?

A brilliant idea that I will be using from now on thank you wheres the best place to buy is that a din rail enclosure, or did you make it up etc

The best way to do it , very good video. Shame that if you out a decent consumer unit the contsctors for rhe brand are so exoensive that you end up having to get different brand contactors and put them outside the CU but thats a different issue.

What’s your preferred brand of DIN rail terminal and where do you source them? I’m Bath-based and no one seems to stick either Wago Top Jobs or plastic DIN rails

This is a great idea.

Very very good- a great solution!

Aren’t the din rails common with the cpcs?

Can I ask, we have a 10.5kw shower. We had to have the bigger cable installed just for that shower with a 45a shower switch. We're on the 3rd switch now as the back keeps melting and bulging and the neutral feed cable melts to. Live feed and both neutral and live load are fine its always the neutral feed that melts and bulges the switches. What could be causing this.

Simple but effective! As it is essentially switchgear should the enclosure be of a non combustible material?

You need to improve on your explanation

Intersting and love it...that will be my future route rather than a pullcord.l have a u used 10mm t&e above my bathroom and been debating on using it and as neatly as possible. Its very much like car circuits which have thin trigger wires powering a n/o or n/c relay taking the main powere eg to a car fan...you are the man sir. Possible run it through an alexa sonoff type switch?.

A bit of a faff but good idea especially if flat roofs are involved does increase cost a bit

Just a point how do you go about safe isolation for testing as there’s two circuits in the adaptable box especially if the box is in the attic and you have a quinetic switch because when the power drops out you can’t do an R1+R2 test at the shower

Leave the pull cord 1 inch long.

I had to use this same isolation and switching method because the plonker who did the original installation used a too small conduit for the wall mounted shower switch in the bedroom to the 3kw water heater in the en suite bathroom.
I found a cpc being used as a switched live!!
The shower switch was converted to a control switch operating the contactor in the loft above.

amazing