If your dog is reactive, listen up ️

Distractions your dog has become so popular, constantly putting food in their mouth to turn them away from a trigger, which don’t get me wrong, can be beneficial in the moment, but it doesn’t have a lasting effect, unless you teach your dog how to respond to the specific trigger.

Once you master your dog on a 6 foot leash, expanding that same scale to a 10 or 15 foot leash is invaluable. I work this game with almost all of my reactive, dog clients, and for namesake we just call it the decision game. Now, it should be said that we typically do a lot of counter conditioning work before we get to the step. What that means is we’ve done a lot of work where this particular dog has seen other dogs, and upon side of that dog, I immediately click or say, yes, and feed. We want to change the way our dog initially feels about the immediate site of a dog.

Now we can move to this stage, where we start to use controlled distractions. This long leash game is not something you wanna do on a walk but you wanna practice on a park instead. Allow, your dog time to look at and process the trigger. I understand that there’s a huge difference between looking and fixating. If you notice that your dog is heavy, panting, eyes pinned forward, forehead, wrinkles, and all of their weight on the two front paws, this is not a healthy state of mind for your dog to be in. When you see them in this date, this gives you a really good chance to practice, recalling your dog back to you. If they fail, it gives you the chance to correct your dog for not complying with a known command.

The goal, however, is to not talk very much to your dog during this lesson. Decisions are to be made without the micromanagement of commands, unless it’s necessary.

What is your dogs biggest trigger?

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