How to choose the correct sizing die - Understanding the differences in sizing dies

Great info and thx for your great work and for sharing to us out there - greetings from Iceland :)

Awesome - THX!

You do a very thorough job and will save new reloaders a lot of aggravation and money by helping them select the correct die for their application, thank you. Also, concentricity is really not often discussed in reloading videos as much as it should. Having a concentric round becomes increasingly relevant to accuracy the further the distance you shoot, why not try to make your ammo straight regardless of distance? I think a lot of people who may have been reloading for quite a while are actually surprised and perhaps a bit horrified when the put some of their reloaded ammunition on a concentricity gauge for the first time. I stopped using an expander ball and started using a mandrel for final case neck expansion a long time ago, what a difference not yanking up on the neck with that expander ball makes.

The thing to remember with bushing dies is, if you're using common brass you should use the decapping rod with the expander ball on it. Then the real advantage is, once you find the proper size bushing, your brass working is kept to a minimum. Bushing dies shine with quality brass like Lapua or brass that has been neck-turned. Probably the most cost efficient route to take is to sort your brass by neck thickness variances. The most even batch of cases usually work fine in a standard size die with an expander ball. Forster FL dies feature a raised expander ball to help keep the necks straight. RCBS and any die with a fully threaded decapping rod will allow the ball to be raised for more concentric necks.

Do the 21st Century expanders fit in the Sinclair die?

This channel's a keeper

Less pressure is always better, full length , re sizing

What are your thoughts on the Redding Body Die + Lee Collet Die combination? The average runout I'll get is 0.0005" and the average higher runout at 0.001". I've been trying it for a little while now and the results are good, but honestly I think I've stretched the limit of my TC Compass. The group sizes at 100yds with this combination and the Forester FL Die seems similar (although, I'll need to test this).

Been reloading 5.7x28mm for awhile. Started with a small base and could only reload once. It had to move to much brass. Got a group D set and it does everything. Now I need to find out if sizing down the D with the small base increases proformance. It just seems the first small base reload feels way better. It may be that multiple shoulder movement makes it feel that way. Also there is no trim after the first sizing. Got aways to go to know it inside and out.

As usual, a well of great information. A suggestion in your video editing; switch to a screenshot of yourself when you are not showing a product or procedure. You may be camera shy but it will keep your audience's attention. I know it is more editing 😡. Just my 2 cents from a former instructor.🤗

I think Hornady make the best pistol dies, especially 357 Sig as they’re the only company I’m aware of with lubeless dies. Their TiNi are great. I wish someone made a TiNi or carbide die for 223 Rem/5.56mm

I don't really understand why the expander balls are smaller than the bullets you plan to seat. I have a 357Sig die with an expander that is 0.353. Trying to stuff a 0.355 bullet into the neck causes crushed shoulders. I end up having to use a universal expander to open it up just slightly.

I’ve watched countless videos to understand the neck tension changes with sizing and all but this finally made it clear to understand how the die sizes the brass. THANK YOU!

You can partially full length body size if you back off the die from hard contact with the shell holder. A little experimenting will tell you if this technique will allow proper functioning without complete full length sizing. A lot depends on the precision of the chamber. I can get this to work in some bolt action chambers with little or no case lube. On the other hand, when I reloaded for a Browning lever action 308, I had to use a small base sizer. When I shot bench rest we all neck sized only with a bushing die, but those were very precise chambers with no measurable eccentricity. Back in the 50's my father and his best friend had consecutive serial number Model 70's with chambers that were so closely matched that they could interchange hot loaded neck sized brass between the 2 guns.

You should make a vid on how you determine what neck tension you prefer?

Collet dies are the best, I swear by them for precision reloading my bolt actions!

Using an expansion mandrel to set neck tension and straighten the neck MOST accurately makes sense to me if the cartridge body is held tight in a die, and the mandrel is pushed in concentric with the body die. Not sure how it is really done though, do you have a video on this? My other thought is that to get the best performance out of a bushing die, one must first turn the neck smooth to ensure a consistent neck thickness. Question for you: Do you know how to measure the diameter of the free bore in a chamber? I would think that chambering a round into a tight free bore would force concentricity to an acceptable level. Your thoughts?

Great informative video, thanks

I needed to use a small base die for my Browning BLR in 308. Cases would not chamber completely if I used a standard RCBS FL die

Very good summary. Thank you.

Use body die and then collet die

Can any brand of die fit in and work/function in any reloading bench press? Like is it only Lee die works with a Lee press or are you able to have interchange die brands in any type of press? Like use a Lee die in any press brand? Thanks :)

You really do talk too fast to get your information across. You know what you're talking about, I'm learning and trying to understand. Please slow down.

Thanks..Great Info for new reloaders, myself included

what are your favorite 6.5 mandrels and where do you buy them?

neck sizing should only be done after youve verified the brass is fully fire formed. This generally takes 2-3 firings of brand-new brass. After it's fully fire formed, then you full-length size it and then only bumping the shoulder about 0.002." I still anneal after every firing whether it's neck sizing until I reach full fire form or its full-length.

I like your "who am I to tell you to change your resizing method" philosophy. There was a time where I thought a person was ignorant to FL size. Then I got tired putting a lot of stress on my action which led to hardware issues. I really am open to the expander method. It makes a lot of sense to me. I will be giving it some more consideration next year. You really have an informative and educational channel and I am enjoying it!

The collet dies are as good as the mandrel idea and much easier to do when set up. Having said that one must be sure that there are no burrs on the outside of the neck when done and not to over crimp as it will damage the case by crushing. I do like neck sizing when only using ammunition for a specific rifle. One has to always full-length size if you expect to be able to shoot out of multiple rifles. I have two 6.5 Creedmoor's and if I don't keep track of my cases need to full length size for them. I primarily shoot bolt guns and reload for sub-MOA hunting ammunition.

Have you tried the Mighty Armory FL die?

How long have u been doing this? Your videos r my bible brotha!!!!!,!,

How do you think the micron dies by bullet central compare to the short action customs neck shoulder bushing dies? Not concerning the versatility

Can you make a video on a 25 .06

Geat breakdown brother!!!

no off the shelf full length sizing die will size your fire formed brass to your chamber, they are 'standardized' to ensure that any case will fit in any chamber. The only way to have a better fit or best fit is to have a custom die cut to your fire formed brass from your chamber. You can even have a seater die to your chamber. Body dies are used to size cases that are difficult to chamber but doesn't mean that is the only reason they were made that way, any full length die was designed to do that. A body die leaves the neck alone to be sized by the Lee collet die mentioned bit also a neck bushing sizing die also. The body die is used along with a neck sizing die to require less work on the case neck. Fired brass on the neck portion only get sized Once verses twice with a standard full length die, and the neck is way over sized and has to be expanded with a ball expander or mandrel, verses a body die and a collet die or neck bushing die..... end result again less work on the case. You can't get way for the body and shoulder being worked, that's a given, but the neck is worked less. Neck sizing only is due to a shoulder being set back too far, and neck sizing for awhile effects accuracy. Proper sizing is bumping a shoulder back from proper fire forming to work the case less for longer life of the case and better accuracy. How can neck sizing only in regards to case life be minimal when it comes to case head stretching ? It is not minimal, eventually. How would one know how minimal it would be depends on how far you full length size, or better how far you set back the shoulder? beginners read the die set up instructions and 'cam' the die over the shell holder, which means they are sizing to minimum head space. Very short case life.... just neck sizing you describe. Is that what you're saying that it's ok to just neck size ? I don't think that's good advice and that is generalization, bud. Needing small base dies is not only not needed but a marketing tool to sell a special die. The base of a die sizes way beyond what the chamber base is at, like .004 or cammed over, even more. Even partially full length sizing or better called shoulder set back, still over sizes your case head. More sizing, yes, is more work and is the only thing that you said is true. You mention beginners.... the advice you are giving here is from a beginner. More advanced hand loaders are beyond. Your title of this video should not say "how to choose the correct sizing die", but should say, "how to correctly size with a full length sizing die" A custom die is better. Different brass with different neck thickness requires different neck bushing, correct. It's not who's way is better, it's about what way is best, and done correctly. Knowing what way is best for you should be what way is best for the chamber fit. Neck tension is the way to go for SD/ES and not distort neck with expander ball/decapping rods introducing runout. Honed out necks, correct no turning back the die is worthless when changing brass neck thickness, bushing sizes correct that. Bushing/mandrel differences?? Never used bushings, benchrest/F class vary in which one they use. Toss up.

Is it worth going with a redding S bushing die vs something like a Wilson full length bushing die and what die would you most recommend for full length sizing and using a separate mandrel?

RCBS black box is the AR series. Not sure about lever action with that set

For my 6.5 PRC I have been using a Redding type S die followed by a mandrel die. This was mostly because I don’t have another FL sizing die for 6.5 PRC. Being that I don’t neck turn, I imagine resizing on the ID of my brass neck will give me more repeatability than resizing on the OD of my brass neck.

About 15 years ago I got into reloading. I found RCBS gear being sold privately, and got a JR3 press, 5-0-5 scale, uniflow powder throw, and some reloading dies (25-06, 270, 308Win, 30-06, 300 Win Mag). There was also a bunch of case prep tools and black-powder accessories. After learning how to use the press properly I made tons of 308Win for my rifle. I also made 30-06 for the wife's dad. BUT, I have had so much trouble with the RCBS dies that I have stopped them, and replacing with Lee Precision. Cases stuck, and different OAL for each completed round in whatever caliber when seating bullets drives me nuts. Absolutely no issues with the Lee dies.

question I was told the Lee Collet Neck Sizing die does not need any lube because of the collet system
is this correct ?

The bushing sizing dies are what you really want to use for very tight tolerance custom rifles where there is a need for neck turning. Not something I would mess with for any rifle with a SAAMI spec chamber.

I believe your absolutely correct. I’m researching into metallic reloading. I reload shot shells mostly 12 gauge. I’ve learned that I have to customize loads for each gun and each shooter. That’s where my wife does not understand why I’m always ordering different items. Over the years I’ve finally gotten together all the tools and equipment to perfect 12 gauge to custom standards and very consistent performance. My chrono results where so consistent Today. If it works? Stick with it.

I would focus on using a bushing die just because pulling that ball through the neck is a pain sometimes.

i had trouble with the lee resizer stem coming out of the die when pulling the ball through the neck unless i absolutely crank down the collet.

I guess by now you know it is For-ster, not For-es-ter.

It's "forster", not forester.

Great explanation of sizing dies.

My take on small base dies is to use one only if you must. They change the size of the brass case more than regular dies do. Only cases from an oversized chamber (cough… machine gun) should need to be pushed back this far. Some M1A/M14 shooters insist on small base dies but I have never needed to use one in either of 2 rifles of that type.

I JUST got into reloading; literally sized/decapped by first 10 cases today to get the die set up and make sure it was tight. One thing i noticed was that on the down stroke of the ram (when the expander passes through the neck a second time) it was hang up slightly. I used a cream style lube but didn't put any on the inside of the neck or prep it in any way. From every video I've seen it looks like it should be smooth in and out.

Is there a problem? Do i need to use a spray lube so it gets inside the neck? Is the case moving somehow in the press/die?

Do I need to run the brass through a full-length die than a small length die?

Great video with loads on the M1- however measuring military overall cartridge length on HXP I get 3.3220”

I just found your video's a week or so ago. Trying to learn 6.5 bolt action reloading, but that might expand to 556. So much info coming, I will try to stay with you.