Ultimate Undercoating for the Rust Belt - Converting Rusty Truck Frame to Salt Water Warrior

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Bende Hilux Vigoma yapmayı düşünüyorum💪🏽

Rust reformer isn’t paint. That rust cutter is so much overkill. Just wire brush it. Spray with lanolin based spray and be done. Repeat spray every fall. Simple.

Dam, great job. After all my experience and testing. he did it exactly the best way possible next to dry ice blasting and cosmoline which is too costly for a non collector car. Great work, wonder if they havea black surface shield to skip the painting step or tint with graphite powder.

This video inspired me to deep clean the underside of my vehicle, removed all ny plastic panels under there, rust converted all of it, and now im about undercoat it with fluid film 😊

Just a note, that rust kutter is wicked. Definitely wear a long sleeve shirt, goggles and mask. I accidently had a bunch that dripped on my arm and face when I was under my vehicle after applying it, and it burned my skin like there was no tomorrow.

Rust reformer is 13 a can now 😅

Awesome job!!!
Lots of work but very gratifying.
No shop will ever do that for you.

Good tips in your video but you're making some bold claims that you really don't have any data to back up regarding Surface Shield and rust prevention.
...and you didn't get inside the rocker panels and cab corners.
The top of the wheel well, on the inner side of the truck bed at the wheel arch, generally accumulates debris and holds water and salt, this is where you see rust bubble thru the paint at the wheel arch.
flush this area with an open garden hose fed up and over the inside of the wheel arch

How much did this whole process cost? How much time would this last if I'm driving 95% of the time on paved roads? (I'm in QC Canada as reference)

Awesome video! Very detailed. Its a long process and I get bored quick lol I did my nissan frontier today but did it quick. Knocked out whatever rust was loose, air blew it, then applied loctite naval jelly. Worked decent but its harder to apply then it wouldve been with your rust kutter by spraying it. Finally i power washed it. Next weekend i will apply the fluid film. I wont be painting or undercoating. Too much work and I heard undercoating isnt as good as one would think.

Ok

Is this product safe is it gets on the brake hoses or wires???

This looks beautiful, but it seems like a lot of work. Next time I would watch for rust right from the beginning not so late like right now

i’m surprised it didn’t eat your gloves too.

As a bonus to the wicking part, any fasteners will be easier to remove and won't be rust welded in place.

CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor is the best

Think it would have been Cheaper for you to carry it to Professional undercoaters ,And it would have been Right when they got done.

@JRESHOW How is it after 2 years?

Anyone watching this right now check out if the Advance Autoparts in your area has any left. Going out of business i picked up the Surface Sheild for less than 3 dollars a can.

Don't call it harbor and freight ever again 😂

Every time he sprayed with water the bare metal rust reactivated.

Fun fact: The term 'Rust Belt' isn't about rusty old cars. It actually refers to the decline of industrial manufacturing in the Midwest.

75% phosphoric acid. Try that Let dry. Epoxy

Rustoleum Rust Reformer is not paint! It's meant to be sprayed directly onto rust covered areas. It neutralizes the rust and turns it black. You don't have to paint over it either.

Kudos to you for such a thorough job. Lots of work, and I hope it never rusts.

You would think that a truck costing over 50.000 the factory could do this

wow thats alot of work! i don't know if rust converters have changed there formula but years ago products like nutra-rust back in the eighties would specifically tell you not ! to remove the rust only lightly brush off the loose stuff because it needed the rust to make the chemical reaction to convert the rust to a almost shiney black suface that looked like paint and could then be painted and it worked very well and was amazing and lasted for years and was so simple to brush or spray on ! i'm sure your truck will never ever rust in your life or that of your great grandchildrens life but for me it seems like an enormous waste of time when you use product after product that i thought were to be applied right onto rust ???

Just got my hands on a 2004 Tacoma with 36k miles, rust has started after 21 years so I have to do the same process. Have been trying to decide on process and products but you really nailed it in this video with almost exactly what I was thinking. I’m going to add a couple steps and use a cable and chain to descale the inside of the frame. I didn’t know about rust kutter and I think I’ll use that. Then I really should paint to make it pretty like you did. After which I plan to use LPS 3 instead of surface shield. Magnificent work, gives me some realistic expectations

I am not paid by anyone this is just been my experience over the years....

Being from the Northeast I know pretty much all there is about rust. Doing auto restoration here are my to go to products.

Ospho. Just make sure you paint right after.

#1 Skunk Rust. Developed primarily for the DoD, and used exclusively in shipyards for rebuilding barges and hulls. I tell you from experience after welding just spray this on your weld and walk away till you come back to the project. And you can weld right through this skunk rust also. All the tests I did with this product it it does exactly what it claims it's amazing. It is my number one go to.
Whatever you put it on it will not rust ever again. Period.

KBS Rust Seal. Forget Por15 it's garbage that has a adhesion problems and it has for years.

All KBS products are the top-of-the-line I use them exclusively.

Enjoyed the video good work!

Thank you so much I’m looking to get this done on my tundra and i will do exactly what you did

From my research and experience, Fluid Film is the best.

“This stuff is basically acid”, sprays brake hoses.

Save all of your used oil into marked walmart gas cans. Use that for an undercoating, dilute it with linseed oil or veggie oil. Its literally free...

Excellent work. Should last now. Just have to respray each fall.

Great video. One thing I noticed is that you didn’t put it on the doors you should put it in the holes of the doors to get inside the doors also

Do you want to come over and do my 23 Tacoma TRD Off Road double cab, 6’ bed too?

An easy 1 time fix to rust proof the underside of a vehicle is to first remove ALL Of the dirt, oil and grime, then take your vehicle to a place where they use Line-X (or Rino Liner) that is used as a Spray in bed liner for pickup beds.
It’s water, salt, chemical proof. Should it ever chip, it’s repaired for free.
It’s lightweight and adds sound insulation qualities.
There’s also a new chemical that can be sprayed on metal and it’s guaranteed not to allow rust for 50 years on metal surfaces and once applied and dried you can paint over it.

Back in the 70s there was a chemical bath called “Dip It” and automobiles that were having a frame off restoration being done, you could take your vehicle to Dip It and they would submerge you’re entire vehicle into it and once it was removed and dried it was down to bare metal and could be painted over and it would never rust again.
I had it a 1926 International flatbed tow truck that I was restoring and after I had stripped off all of the electrical, rubber and wood, I had it hauled to a “Dip It” facility in Los Angeles, CA.
It was all original when I was finished except for the power train.

I just bought a 47 Ford pickup that my father in-law bought new and it ran until 15 years ago. It’s all original and the body is in perfect condition except for the grill and one of their neighbors has a 47 Ford pickup that he was parting out so I bought the grill from him.
I’ll repaint it the original dark green once it’s ready.

Great vid, thanks for making! Helps to keep a few cans of surface shield on hand after the fact. If you need to go and make a fix on a specific part, the surface shield is sticky and makes for a messy fix. Oftentimes I'll wipe what I can of it off to cut down mess while doing the fix/part replacement, then re-spray in the area after.

How did it held up?

Waxoyl hardwax plus would most likely last a lot longer than Surface Shield.

Great video, how many days dit it take you from start to finish? and what was the budget for the entire project? Thank you for sharing!

You can't make chicken salad from chicken shit😅

did all the paint rust off?

too much work, water will get under the paint and be held there.

My 05 is beyond help I'm afraid.

Just use fluid film

The main ingredient in rust kutter is phosphoric acid $50 per gallon
The main ingredient in Kleen-Strip Concrete and Metal Etch is Phosphoric acid $17 per gallon
Use at your own risk.

75 d200 built with heavy use of galvanized steel. Entire undercarriage for one. Wikipedia.

Harbor n freight 😂

For those thinking of doing this, if you're spraying it with Surface Shield, there's no need to completely get all the rust off, convert it, and paint it with reformer. The lanolin displaces any moisture and stops the progress of existing rust. You'll want to coat it a few times to build up layers of protection. I've also heard that shops start with Surface Shield, then coat it with Fluid Film after that initial layer.