I went to Lattice Training for an assessment of my finger strength and endurance. I mostly compare myself to my own performance in the past, but it was useful & surprising to compare my own strength numbers to others who climb at the same level or higher.
Chapters:
00:00 - The performance testing and rationale for it
03:31 - My prior assumptions about my strengths/weaknesses
04:40 - Is rate of force development trainable?
05:52 - How does my age and injury history affect my training?
07:02 - The finger strength testing
08:40 - Speculating on why I like the 3 finger drag grip so much
10:45 - The finger endurance testing - critical force
14:58 - Discussing my results
26:06 - W’ (power endurance)
27:05 - Initial reactions to the results
30:50 - Low carb diet and power endurance
33:30 - What factors influence critical force (endurance)
36:49 - My own conclusions and thoughts about the testing