PERFECT CEILING BEAMS from BAD MATERIAL??? How To Deal With Bad Material...

Hey I've got an lvl i going to cover up . Its about 4x 12 inch x 19f long.....any tips or thoughts for completing it?

Not a professional here but wow. Done plenty of trim jobs without all of these tricks. Thanks for sharing.

Superb video! Thwe attention to detail and the description/ directions are unequaled!

Great video, wish I had watched this 2 years ago.

Thank you for sharing all of this knowledge! Easily the best videos I’ve found explaining how to perfect miter joints for beams and the like. I made a custom console/hallway table for my wife and it got SO MANY compliments I started getting requests from friends, and friends of friends… and so on! Just from studying your videos I’ve been able to damn near perfect miter joints!

I take large pieces of wood and miter them to look like solid “slabs” of wood to make Sofa tables, benches and so on.

Anyway, none of this could have been done without your videos! You literally answered every problem I was having with trying to make perfect miter joints that can’t be seen. Thanks again for being so generous with your expertise! Your channel is AWESOME! It’s GREATLY APPRECIATED! 👍

Thank you for sharing all of this knowledge! Easily the best videos I’ve found explaining how to perfect miter joints for beams and the like. I made a custom console/hallway table for my wife and it got SO MANY compliments I started getting requests from friends, and friends of friends… and so on! Just from studying your videos I’ve been able to damn near perfect miter joints!

I take large pieces of wood and miter them to look like solid “slabs” of wood to make Sofa tables, benches and so on.

Anyway, none of this could have been done without your videos! You literally answered every problem I was having with trying to make perfect miter joints that can’t be seen. Thanks again for being so generous with your expertise! Your channel is AWESOME! It’s GREATLY APPRECIATED! 👍

Maestro!!!!!!🤛🏼

Spencer, just came up with a method that might speed you up a little.  

For the narrow centre piece, you could still use the track saw for both bevels. After ripping the first bevel on that piece, tape it to the side piece you've already done. That way, any bow is corrected. Then rip that second bevel, and you're good to go! No need to head back to the table saw.

Good work as always.

Thanks for that great video. Where did you buy those pine planks? they look very nice and quite straight. Are they properly dried so they won't warp over the time

What wood other than white oak works well? I can't find white oak that long and it's crazy expensive.

great clear hands on teaching

What kind of tape do you use?

Excellent video tutorial!!!

Great show as always, another reason to fold the tab on the tape is that some of the soft woods we get will show some nasty fingernail marks when you try to peel off the pieces. Thank you for keeping build standards high.

Great video. I just built some beam wraps using this technique. One thing to be careful of....I built my miter folds and dry fir on day 1, finished them(whitewash/varnish) day 2, installed day 3...btwn day 2 and 3 the side pinched in a little making them too tight to fit over my beams. likely due to moisture fro whitewashing or just humidity. It might be a good idea to place blocks inside to maintain the inside gap.
The fix will be painful...these beams will be hand hewn on the inside!

You are awesome 😎

Thanks for sharing this Spencer. The cost of living in my area has become comparable to California. So no professional wood shop for me. This really simplified things.

Why not buy two tracks n hinge them together.

You’re a trail blazer Spence !

I appreciate all that you do in your videos. Your presentation and informative format are encouraging.

I am planing on using Birch veneer to make floating shelves, can I use these3 same techniques to make mitered floating shelves?

I will be making beams for our cottage that's why I landed on your videos,I was assuming the table saw was good enough but looks like I'm buying a track saw ,thank you for posting as I'm sure it's going to save me some aggravation

Awesome presentation learned a lot I’m about to tackle a small project in my home definitely feel a lot more confident doing so now

I’ve used aluminum straightedges and a circular saw for cutting plywood for built ins rather than muscling plywood on a job site table saw but the track saw is a game changer for time.

Best video I've came across explaining how to do this. Love the channel. Thanks for sharing knowledge.

Frog painters taped worked better for me. Easier to remove and stuck better than packing tape. Thanks for a great video

You learn so much from a master craftsman. Thanks a lot !

Excellent tutorial in every way. Can I ask about the part where you miter at 46°? When the two metered edges are joined together are those two 46° angles meeting each other or two 44° angles coming together? I can't get my head around that bit. Sorry to trouble you.

Very Impressed! Thumbs up from NC

Very impressive. I love fine carpentry.

Great video. Thanks.

Really enjoy all your videos! I’m gonna do a faux beam vaulted ceiling for the first time pretty soon, and this really helps the anxiety of it. I’m a bit of a tool addict, but rarely am in need of a track saw. My table saw is a ridged job site saw that is ok for rough work, but not cabinet grade. I have one question if anyone can help me: I’d like to make an old school rip guide that is like a track saw but relies on one fence. If I make this with an aluminum guide rail or 2 pieces of plywood, could I use it for beveled rips as well? Or would I have to make one with the guide being beveled to the particular degree? Trial and error will let me know. Just curious of anyone knowing what I’m talking about and having an answer. Thanks a million Spencer for your vast knowledge of current tricks of the trade. Subscribed.

Great tip regarding the crown and adjusting your cuts for that. I appreciate your methodical approach and hearing your thought process. I have a question about how you’d recommend butting two beams together to make a longer looking beam. Maybe I missed this? Apologize if someone already asked. With baseboard trim, for example, beveling helps execution but I’m scratching my head around how to accommodate for the large scale of the beam, 3D aspect and wanting to ensure end to end is as tight as possible. Thanks!

I’ve watched 10 or more of these faux beam tutorials and this one is BY FAR the best. Much thanks for being so detailed! Excited to tackle this project on my own house.

So well explained 😊
All about the details !
G8 job ❤
Kind & best regards from Poland 🇵🇱

Thank you for your continued generosity

Looking forward to that install video!

Thanks for sharing. I recently did a 14' Cedar using, mitred box beam, matching grain at the edges. It was a bit rough sawn, which I hand flatened sanded flat on the outside. I over mitered the joint, and pressure fit with a spline joint, using pipe clamps. I used a ladder, shims and clamps to flatten the waivy 1"×14" boards, then found a piece of weathered, imperfect mdf base as a straight edge, which I ripped on the table saw. Using the same chalk box you use to straighten the mdf base. If I remembercorrectly, used some of the ripped material as the spline, just under 1/4" thick. Tight Bond 2 and I think 1" pin nails. I told the employer who fired me, that I was going to a friend's cabinet shop to use his Timesaver abrasive sander and his Casolin panel saw, He freaked out and so I stayed at the job and made a beautiful, straight and flat box beam in lol, five days.

I like your videos and the ensembles you make

You do a phenomenal job of describing and demonstrating detailed processes of trim carpentry. I’ve basically been binge watching your content for the past few days. Thanks for setting the benchmark for what I consider to be the MOST useful tool as a tradesman, information. It saves an enormous amount of time and materials due to misguided trial and error.

Do you like 46 degrees better than 45.5? In past video you seemed to like 45.5 better for mantles and floating shelves.

Why not just go get a 8ft piece and spline them together

What holds the track to the work piece without clamps?

I LOVE LOVE LOVE MY LOCK MITRE BIT!!!!!!

Why don’t you use biscuits or dominos on your beams?

Excellent as always.
If you feel led, please support Spencer by considering monthly financial support, as there are very very few folks putting out this level of quality, experience, and help to those of us in the trade.

Pro tip: when you set your tape, after you cut the length and before you whack down the last end, just fold over the end to leave a tab. When it's time to remove the tape, you don't have to dig around with your fingernails. Just pull the tab. Super fast! Fini.

Instead of wiping the glue on the trash can I would have wiped it on the other side of the board

Wow. Great video. You mentioned in another video about a glue gun method. Not sure which video came first. Anyway would that glue be better in this situation? Or no due to benefit of glue + sawdust closing joint? Also in that video you mentioned this glue needing clamping force. I realize these beams are different situation. Also I’m looking to do a library and love to do something similar to this. However ceiling from right to left is continuously sloped and then changes angle to drop more. Not sure of design idea. Love your videos