Surfer gets caught in big wave chaos

Love your channel Brad! Really enjoy the breakdowns and hearing how the waves break and what is going on. You have so much local knowledge and it is fun to learn from that or to understand how the waves break. Keep up the great work! 😁🌊🤙🎨

I’ve bodysurfed the wedge a few times and it is no joke. 🤙🏽

Why would anybody do this?

man poor Jamie, it ain't that hard to bottom turn on a bodyboard 😂😂😂

Love these Brad, glad you've been crankin' them out. They have something of the fun quality of watching a movie backwards in a classroom (as all you people over 60 might know).

job on the softops

You might be surprised, but JOB has actually competed in pro body boarding events over the years and been invited to many others as a wildcard.

Getting sucked over falls when peeking a look is always the worst feeling 😆

I used to live in Newport in the 80s. Ive boogie boarded at the wedge many times. Its no joke .

Good commentary 😂🤙🦆🌊

Good commentary 😂🤙🦆🌊

Great narration!

Brad Your video shows EXACTLY what happens on a Wedge like slab, airials, getting pitched forward and backwards. Bill Haywood taught me to plane on my chest at Hapuna AND I ended up marrying a Newport girl who grew up 3 blocks from the wedge. On 10/28/87 Mile Stewart, and I, and one other guy rode 30' faces 11 to a set. Mike told me he'd just surfed that swell in Tahiti, then Hawaii, then the wedge for the first time! The register had a picture on the cover in the next morning of the other guy decked out in all yellow gear but they MISSED by not recognizing the world champion Mike Stewart!!! Ironically, it was best when there were no crowds, and you were competing with the Maui champions the Haywood's! Your eye gets that action and shows the mechanics of the wipeout everyone will eventually suffer. I've got the scars to show for the mistakes over 40 years.

I had to make a clip of this and send it to a friend. I had declined his request to "borrow your board" a few years ago. I didnt even try to explain why.

Enjoyed it

Pink board dude probably should or could have pushed the board over or up and over.
I wasn’t there so just armchair quarterbacking.
Saw that technique by Gerry Lopez at Pipe in a late 70’s surf move and it stuck with me; still use it in crunchy conditions.

getting caught in that wash is like being in a substance that is a solid, liquid hybrid.

Problem is, 😞the guy with the pink board ??😣what if someone was below it when it came crashing down ??😮then what ??

You do a great job! LOL! I enjoyed it!I come from a surfing family and I can't anymore due to age and surgeries from too much fun earlier. Thank you for the share!

If you don't know about surfing or water, you might wanna try land activities!

Mate you are the best😂

Damn, so much agony... yet so much fun!

Great Vid!!!

Job aka Jamie O Brian bodyboards more than you portray. He even competed in the Pipeline bodyboarding competition not so long ago.

JOB: I’m injured so can’t surf.

Wedge: I’m one of the most dangerous places to basically do anything at, so many go somewhere more mellow while you heal up.

Everyone Except JOB: yea you’re probably right.

JOB: I choose Wedge. Gimme a sponge.

We all do this? Do you surf? By your comments we can tell you don’t..dirt??!!! It’s SAND! Lol