RetroRGB Weekly Roundup #57 - June 7th 2017

startech pexhdcap is your best bet for internal, coury from my life in gaming suggested it to me for the OSSC. it's a copy of a Micomsoft card. usb3hdcap is also a good external one

Super Mario Land?! :D

Replacing a label is horrible to do. I would never do it, and I would never buy a cart that has had a label replaced. People using the car analogy are way off. A label is not needed or effects the play-ability of the cart. A paint job on a restored car does effect it. Otherwise it would be exposed to elements, rust and wither away. The only thing that "has" to be replace on a cart for videogames is the battery. This effects the game play and intended use. So only stick to replacing batteries for carts!

If a cart is severely damaged (Cracked or broken shell, board etc.) then using donor parts to replace/rebuild I think would be acceptable, but it has to be documented, by writing and/or pictures of why parts had to be replaced/swapped to regain the functionality of the cart for buyers down the line. And then it still should be sold at a lower value.

the 3ds.guide website on softmodding 3ds's has a few steps about spotpass and friend settings that are supposed to help prevent a ban

Is there any place i can get a snes rgb amp? I cant seem to find the THS7374 anywhere anymore

my friend has one of those 20" toshiba's with s-video, composite, rf, and component. I'll ask him to get the model no. I'll tweet it at you.

Strongly suggest expanding the RGB monitor page to include Ikegami TM/HTMs, JVC CG/DTVs, Panasonic BT/H's, etc. The "generic" PVM almost always lines up with sony as the default and there's many more options out there. Some being far more convenient such as Ikegami which pretty much had RGB for everything 14" and up. Plus a good shadowmask is far more organic feeling compared to the clinically sharp aperture grille.

Hey man! I have a capture card that uses component and hdmi and outputs to both. It can accept a 240p signal through component to hdmi (it works with the HDretrovision cables). For the HDMI im not sure if it will accept the particular signal youd need but its worth a shot and its cheap!

The card is a Roxio Game Capture HD, i think its around 90 bones. I also use an elgato hd60 but i doubt the elgato accepts that particular HDMI signal.

I hope this helps!

Can't wait for the new GBED. i was hoping he would make one with rtc support and krikzz is going to deliver. Thanks fir the great news Bob.

I'm not sure what you said about the new framemeister profiles is correct. I was one of the people having incompatibility issues with the profiles that turned out to be caused by the deep color mode being on and it not working with my HDMI matrix. When trouble shooting Wolff sent me completely "clean" unmasked profiles he made for Joe Redifer at Game Sack so he could mask them in post instead and that seems to be what these new profiles are. He says on the site;

"I also added in a new folder of "1080 Producer Profiles". These are completely unmasked profiles for a few of the consoles that I had wrote complex mask settings on in the main profiles folder. They are meant for video production experts that prefer to mask and crop their video captures in their own video production software."

So it would seem that these are for producers that want to do masking in post. I haven't actually tested the new profiles yet and I could be completely wrong but that is the way I understood it to be. Love the videos btw.

Hey, Bob. When you do your testing on the white line issue for the snes, can you please check the difference between using a real cart vs an SD2SNES. One of my older model snes consoles has a mild white line (nothing serious enough to send to you, unfortunately). I used FFIII opening to test it (as most do) and noticed that when playing the rom through my SD2SNES the line was far less noticeable. Very interesting. Maybe something related to power consumption? I don't know. Give it a go yourself. I'd love to know what you think.

don't feel like an idiot with the humming noise, recently we ran into a problem where I could hear an echo of myself from my co-host's yeti mic, and after forever we fixed it by getting her mic off of her desk. Why that worked we still don't know.

The Micomsoft X-Capture1 can do HDMI 240p60/288p50 to 1080p50/60 iirc. I know it also supports composite, s-video, YPbPr, RGBS, and VGA.

Magewell Pro Capture HDMI. I cannot go back to any capture device anymore. It works with all the OSSC mode thus far. I haven't tried it with the 480i/576i line3x and line4x mode that you just shared in this video however.

KV-20FV300 is probably the pinnacle of consumer trinitrons at 20in

KV-20FS100, KV-20FS120, KV-20FV300
These models have RF, Composite, and Component. The FS100 and FS120 are the most common Trinitron tvs you will encounter.

Thanks for answering my question dude I guess I'm gonna have to pony up and get a gscart then. As for capture card for sure get either the xcaptute-1 or the pcie version the SC-512N1 which hopefully shouldn't give you issues. There sold on Solaris Japan with the rest of micomsofts products.

Here is my quick take on the re-printed label debate. If your doing it because you want everything to look nice and clean, then do whatever you want. Don't let anyone else's opinion try to make you feel less proud of your collection. Even people who physically come into your home and see your collection in person are going to have no idea you have a reprinted label on a cart. For those keeping bookcases and such of carts with no box's - GO FOR IT.

For those doing it to Clean up a cart to sell. If you have a super rare cart for example chronotrigger, and the label is torn, worn, sunbleached ect... your going to get "about" what it is worth regardless. (trending price). As long as the Cart works, the Plastic is not damaged, the pins are clean and not rusted, your set to make what it is worth. People want rare games for the Game (when it is cart only or Complete in open box, if were talking NIB then this debate does not matter as the cart inside should be pristine).

Looking at ebay for some rare carts and trying to find carts with writing on them, ripped labels and such. The few high end collectible games I did find compared to carts with nice or near pristine labels the price difference was minimal to not at all. It comes down to other facts too, when you listed, when the listing ends, who i bidding, demand for that game at the time it is up and how many others are listing the same game. Using Chronotrigger, as an example.. authentic carts (cart only were selling for 80-144 each. Carts selling in the 80-90 range were authentic with nice labels, bust so were the ones selling at $140. The few I saw with damages labels or writing on the cart still sold for at or over $100. Then I looked up a common game like Super Mario World on the SNES. They seem to sell for like 8-23 bux each. The Few I could find that were not in great physical shape were on the lower end $10 $12 ect.... Where the average sale price according to ebay is $19.98. So with a common game you can loose up to 50% value for poor condition on the outside of the cart. So here is the thing. The cost of a Reprinted label is going to cost you $5-10 bux if you buy one and have it shipped to you (unless your doing it yourself on a high end printer). The value of what you spend to restore the "carts looks" really are not going to recover you more than the value of the label you replaced. SO really the whole "reprinted label" debate when it comes to resell is pretty much MOOT. If the reprinted label added 50% value on higher end rare carts I could see it being a huge issue with disclosure, but from looking up many SNES and even NES carts - Carts worth $60+ all the way up to the carts that sell for $200-300 (aside from the few games that did not have any "poor" label copies listed) the label or condition of the outside of the cart really did not matter much. In many cases "poor" condition carts sold at the trending price, or for more than other carts that were in better condition. so again other factors were at work for these sale as I explained above.

The CRT Mod Wiki is not good. Anyone who knows how to RGB mod CRT's know there are a million times more capable CRT's out there. They also don't rely on a wiki to see if they can do the mod or not.

I'm happy to know the noise was not your buttplug!

Save the original cover with the original label on it and get a new cover and repro label. Then when you want to sell you just give the seller the original cover w/ label and it's up to them to either swap it out or keep it with the repro label.

Hey Bob, if I ship you my "white-line" SNES, can you promise to add three pounds of hot glue, like I saw in your mod work video? K thanks. ;^)

I simply put a 480uf capacitor on the 7805 and that got rid of the white line on my SNES

Great vid as always - the RS232WiFi modem... I think it would be better if it fit inside a DB25 Shroud... The designer says it could be tweaked (layout) so if anyone agrees, get on over to his site and TELL him... There is a production run gap so its the best time to get it tweaked....

Great show! Someone near New York needs to hook Bob up with the perfect 19-20" Sony CRT TV that he's looking for.

RetroRGB, for capture cards I would suggest taking a look at the Elgato HD 60 Pro.
It's an internal PC capture card that allows up to 1080p @ 60fps through HDMI.
As long as you can convert the RGB signal to HDMI and embed the audio into an HDMI output (through devices like the Framemeister or OSSC) you should have no problems.

The highest end consumer grade 20" SD CRT that Sony ever made was the KV-20FV300. I think this is as close as you will get to a PVM on a consumer grade 20" SD CRT. I have the KV-24FV300 and games really look great on this set. The picture is quite a bit better than the FV24FS100 that I have owned in the past. Sony even made a 14" FV300. If you can't find an FV300 set, I would guess the 20" FS100 or FS120 set would be the next best thing.

I might have a SNES with a white line issue. I've read that PVMs help reduce the issue quite a bit. I remember plugging it into my friend's Phillips HDTV and seeing it so purely it was really destructing on most games I played on it but with my PVM-20M2U it's still there but less distracting. Do you have any suggestions on which games to use so I could further test it to see if it's worthy of sending to you?

I have a 1CHIP01 snes I'm getting modded tonight, if I saw this video sooner I'd have sent you mine. It's pretty noticeable during the FFIII opening through HD Retrovision cables, and with RGB SCART cables running to my Shinybow component to SCART switch.

has anyone ever come across a consumer CRT with S-video that's about 14" ?

Hey Bob have you gotten to try to Shinybow RGB to Component converter yet?

you always get my like before watching :)

So yea RetroRGB my snes mini does have the lines i think. They show up on mt 4k tv but not sure if same on different tvs. So if u need my snes mini for testing purposes i can happily send it to you

I would only reprint the label if it were really damaged and I knew I would keep the game forever. I would like my collection to look nice. If the game were really rare, I would not touch it.

I am not sure if any of the tv compatibility lists for the OSSC have been updated yet, but the 2016 4K Samsung KS8000 seems to be fully compatible now with FW 0.77. I have not tested the SNES yet, but 2X-5X 240p and 2X 480p work perfectly. The TV does switch to PC mode ( disabling game mode) if you use a resolution other than 480p, 720p, and 5x 1920x1080. I believe the PC mode has an input lag of 37ms and game mode is 20ms.

Voultar said in Retro Roundtable #1 that he'd look into the SNES white line with an oscilloscope. Did he find anything? I know he's busy being a champion for the people, so I understand if he hasn't gotten to it.

(Sorry to repeat myself, I also asked this in the Roundtable #3 comments.)

cool info on how the switch carts are made and can't wait to watch the arcade documentary!

Does the rgb bypass mod also help with the white line issue when using s-video?

Glad to hear that the cause of hum is known. I've never dealt with recording quality issues. But same-surface vibration leading to such a significant hum through the base of the microphone seems super error prone! Especially since it's not really discoverable until after the content is recorded unless you're super vigilant.

Personally I'd be worried about accidentally leaving something else that vibrates on the table.

Picking up sound through the base so clearly finally explains why I can hear your keyboard so much during retro round table sessions.

Is there some kind of foam/rubber pad the microphone can sit on that would have separated it from the vibration noise? I suppose this is why people get those long articulating arms.

Thanks for pointing out the framemeister progressive vs interlaced quality difference. I've been seeing a bit of blur that I haven't diagnosed yet and fingers crossed that this is the missing factor. Do you happen to know if interlaced input to progressive output on the framemeister would make a difference? I'm pretty sure I've set every piece of my setup to progressive wherever possible.

My Vizio d24 d1 works with all ossc modes in case anyone wants a tv that will work its 1080 24 inch only 100 dollar tv

Also with the snes I've done 3 bypasses and none had the white line after

Thanks Bob for answering both my questions! Kind of wanted an excuse to buy the Garo, might get it anyway haha. cheers as always for good updates, can't wait for the pack a punch review

Dear god, the first 3 minutes is him talking about audio hum, it's nice it's gone, but it's not that interesting

Any bad labeled games I want to make look nice, I will buy a new cart and label so I still have the original cart with the bad label when I need it, or if I ever sell

HAHAHA the harddrive! That's great :) Glad you found it!

I like the new place

Question for you Rob. What type computer do you use Mac or PC? What do you use for recording a GoPro, a DSLR, your Iphone?