Комментарии:
Truly an epic video!! Great breakdown
ОтветитьAdam is 186cm, but most of that is neck 😂
ОтветитьThanks Mani! its unbelievable how steep this route is and how hard the moves are... Sure sad about the amount of sika needed on this limestone but a beautiful route anyways. This is why the quality of the limestone in Ceuse stands out for me
Ответитьabsolute sebbage
Ответитьsuper Video. Adam hat mega gute Karten für die Route
ОтветитьLove your input on these videos, it feels like a great bridge for the technical parts that I miss being a "regular" climber. Would be good if next time you cut out the parts of the video which you don't comment on so we get just your key input.
ОтветитьA little less screaming for Adam style
ОтветитьReal crux is the multiple spinners in a row
ОтветитьI agree, when I watched the video it seemed like Adam looked super solid on it. Especially when you take into account how long other people like Stefano even just doing moves on Silence compared to Ondra doing all of the moves in 1 or 2 days and doing big links in a few sessions. I wonder how Stefano would fare on this route, seems his style though the big reaches would definitely affect him a lot. Also in the vid when you mentioned Ondra was tall, with an even bigger reach, I don't think this is true. I remember him saying he has a minus ape index. Still he definitely has a bigger reach than Seb.
ОтветитьSeb power screams like a ghost is controlling his body and keeps doing moves he's not expecting.
ОтветитьI think Adam will have to compare DNA to the 9b+ he did before (La Dura Dura, Move, Change) and see if DNA is harder or not. Because for Silence, he only knows that it was way harder than what he ever did before. But we actually don't know if there is a grade in-between. Like DNA could but the first 9c and Silence actually 9c+, it wouldn't surprise me. For now I feel that no route has looked as crazy hard as Silence. Neither Project BIG nor DNA look as hard. But of course only people who actually send the routes can tell. Seb Bouin has sent Move, Change, Bibliographie, and 3 other routes at 9b+ level that have not been repeated! Correct me if I'm wrong but no other climber has sent so many >9b routes. I think if he has felt that DNA was harder than these other routes, then 9c it is!
ОтветитьHard approach. Chapeau to Seb’s mom making the hike in to belay him.
ОтветитьIch frag mich ob ich da auch nur einen einzigen Zug machen könnte, selbst wenn die Wand 90° stehen würde. Der Wahnsinn.
ОтветитьI would be really surprised if this route saw a downgrade. Seb has sent more 9b+ than pretty much everyone else in the world and he's not really known for overgrading, on the contrary. And through the video Adam seemed pretty much in tune with Seb's grading. He didn't looked like he had too much reservation on DNA grade. But we will know sooner than later i hope !
If DNA is easier than Silence, which we don't know yet, i would bet it has probably more to do with Silence being graded lower than it actually is, since Adam was the first to step in that unknown realm..
Again, grading routes at this level is too complicated and we don't have enough data or climbers at that level yet, it still is in a process of discovery right now.
We can also talk about the level of the climbers, which is a huge factor. How do you gauge that ? it seems like every year they are stronger and push further and further. But individualy, what if Stephano is not at the level of seb or Jakob right now and those two could send Silence faster than him if they tried ? What if Adam is now way better than when he sent Silence and looks extra solid on DNA because of that ? Too much unknown but its incredibly exciting for sure.