How good is that "Free" Range Brass

This is an excellent video with good information on range brass...If anyone runs into any 9MM range brass with the head stamp ‘AMERC’ toss it far away. Also be on the lookout for 9MM brass with an inside “step” about halfway down into the case...it will limit the depth a bullet can be seated and with some powder and bullet combinations can cause issues. I often run across 7.62 NATO brass fired in a rifle with a fluted chamber such as an H&K 91 or a CETME among others...I stay away from loading them to high pressure but I have used them for my low pressure TrailBoss powder/cast bullet low recoil bolt action plinking/squirrel loads. As with anything else...YMMV so be aware 👍.

Also with 223 brass pick ups, be aware of the military primer crimp and how to deal with it.

I buy most of my brass from scrapyards. $1.30/lb, have tens of thousands of rounds that I trade, load and shoot.

👍I've got about 400 pounds of new cartridge range brass (lot of my personal use) in 5 gal buckets. 9, 38, 40, 45acp, etc. No aluminum or steel... sorted. Any interest? Any ideas other than selling to recycler junk yard. (So. east US)
I was going to start reloading however that didn't happen.

All good tips. As far as steel and brass coated steel, I bought an inexpensive fishing magnet for $11 (300lb rating...strong, but not too strong) and just a momentary pass over the pile of brass I'm inspecting snatches the up the steel casings instantly. Also, I mounted one of those ring lights with a magnifying center at my reloading bench so that my older eyes can get a better look at my brass...since it articulates, I can just glide the light/magnifying glass over my table and scan the heads and mouths of my brass fairly quickly and I can make sure they're all boxer primed. The casings that pass the first inspection, I then inspect the case walls one by one (tip - don't get a light with too much magnification, a little goes a long way).

Got some 4acp had to sort small primer from large primer and tried to keep head stamps grouped.

Aluminum cases should not be reloaded. Experiments done several times now, and the takeaway is that they can, in an emergency, be reloaded ONCE with a mild to moderate load. Reloading more than once, or hot loading them, will result in case ruptures, separations, splits, etc.
The good use I've found for reusing them is converting the aluminum cases to using plastic or wax bullets with a primer only as propellant. To do that, you only need to enlarge the flash hole. Good way to practice aim and trigger control.
Case head separation is actually caused by case stretching. Over resizing, or setting the shoulder back too much let's the case stretch on firing. Just a couple or three reloads is enough to create a problem. Pressure signs are shown in the primer as you mentioned, or if you want to get technical you can measure the case right in front of the extractor groove. Excessive pressure will expand this area, and it doesn't rebound any. Plus "sticky" extraction means way too much pressure.
Neck splitting is caused by work hardened brass. Annealing the neck and shoulder eliminates this potential problem.
Case dents don't cause reloading issues IF they are relatively small, and don't have any sharp edges to the crease. If they do have sharp edges, case integrity needs to be questioned.
The two piece cases require special dies for reloading - otherwise they can cause problems.
Decent video. Thanks.

Always check your brass both rifle and pistol for cracks and swollen cases which occur normally BUT look out for the GLOCK SMILE, you find the smile Smash it so it can’t be used.

How do I find prices for once fired range brass ? To mail to reloaders ?