How To Install An Inline Fuel Check Valve (Andy’s Garage: Episode - 49)

thanks!

Nice job thanks its helpful.

Great explanation. Thank you!

Can the pressure bleed off the other way?

Thanks , I thought there may be an easier way than to drop my tank and change my fuel pump. I will let you know if this works in my 1999 Pontiac Sunfire.
God Bless

Thank you

If I have the style fuel filter with three ports, won’t I need to add it on the return line from the filter going back to the tank if it’s the regulator that’s on the pump that’s leaking? I’m afraid if I put on the supply side it will still drain back through the return line. and if I put it downstream of the filter it will over pressurize the system and not allow it to vent back. Your video only shows the two-port fuel filter. Thanks

Thanks for showing exatcly what we need to go buy.

Thanks for showing Arrows for direction.

Is it possible if I put it(fuel check. valve) in my motor cycle?. my motor cycle is a yamaha mio i 125. fuel injected

Is it possible if i put fuel ckeck valve in the fuel line of my motorcycle?.125cc fuel injected motorcycle

It's still losing pressure but lesser than before any way I know this
Check valve I use it usually near the fuel pump where is the outlet for fuel to the fuel rail
but
My question is
is it ok to put it before fuel rail so it doesn't lose pressure that much 😁

Rock on, Andy.

Great video! I'm no mechanic, but if you don't put the check valve at or near the tank, doesn't that leave an air pocket that will go into the fuel line leading to other issues? Also, for really hot engines, don't you want a check valve that opens backwards if the pressure gets too high? My understanding if the fuel heats significantly after the engine shuts off, you'll want it to release that pressure back to the tank. Hoping some experts can comment on this.

Will this work with the plastic fuel lines that some vehicles have?

Phillips Vision adding this valve in the fuel system will this affect the fuel pressure in the system ????will this car struggling geting fuel in higher rpm???

My 01 Yukon 5.3 is getting up to 58 to 60 psi. But rapidly loses pressure. Is this the problem and solution or is it fuel pump? I changed the fuel filter and the camshaft position sensor. But it still just turns and doesn't start

I use this valve for air check valve replacing the plastic OE/OEM that’s prone to fail so badly after some years, worked great !

My fuel pump sucks fuel from the engine end, rather than pushing it through from the tank end - would I still need to install the check valve in between the tank and the filter (before it gets to the pump)? Also, does it matter how far from the tank the check valve is inserted?

Will this work if I have slightly low fuel pressure will it bringbit back up to correct pressure?

What size check valve do I need for 2001 silverado 5.3 v8?

Shouldn't it be installed after the filter, so the filter can reduce the amount of debris that may accumulate over time in the NRV / check valve?
I read somewhere that the NRV / check valve can be clogged due to debris or any kind of dirt within time, especially when it's installed between the tank and the filter. I would say and propose to install it after the filter, if that makes any sense. If this is correct about valve getting clogged, then it's not something maintenance free and we should always keep an eye on it and replace after the recommended period (which I have no idea what this period is exactly). Of course it depends on the media type whether water, fuel, oil, etc.
Hope it makes sense. Glad if someone has a better suggestion. Thanks a lot.

I have the same issue with fuel pressure. I am also getting a po300 code with an occasional flashing check engine light. Can this issue cause that? I have changed the plugs wires and coils. Have not looked at the injectors, fuel filter, and don't want to think about the fuel pump

mine is t shipped and I can not seem to find it

I'm having the time of my life keeping my 04 BMW 325i in tip top shape, has been having long starts for months now, I just put a salvage yard fuel pump in mine, it looked new but must had a busted check valve, do you think this will keep it from cutting out of gas at 50 mpg to E also?

This fixed my issue, used to have to crank 3+ times when cold starting

helped me understand a few major details!

My issue isn't on the main line that supplies fuel its the return line.i closed off return line and pressure remained good but as soon as I opened it,it lost all pressure . So would it be better to be placed on return line?

hmmm... thinking out loud here... My little petrol Corsa C wouldnt start, no pressure at the fuel rail, so I put in a new pump. It ran perfectly for about 20 klms and then the symptoms started. It is hard to start, idling/running rough and gutless. Hit the accelerator and there is hesitation then the revs slowly build. I have 55 psi pressure at the rail but it instantly goes to 0 when the pump power is cut. Ive checked the regulator and thats working. Ive cleaned the filter out and its running clean without restriction. The injectors are all working producing a good pattern. So the only issue I can point at is likely to be the check valve at the NEW pump failing BUT I cant see how that would cause it to run rough etc once its been started as the pressure is being maintained by the pump and thats working fine. Very confused...

So Im thinking maybe I could install a check valve in the line but also that there must be a reason why manufacturers dont install check valves. I can only guess that the pump may produce too much pressure at times. No worries I hear you say, the pressure regulator on the return side controls that. Problem is on many cars there is no return from the injector rail. The return is directly after the fuel filter which is at the tank and there is not enough room in the line to add any check valve.

In my Corsa C the fuel line setup goes; fuel pump (in tank pump) which has a check valve built in to it. Pump to filter which is mounted on the side of the tank. Directly after filter the line splits in two. One goes to the fuel rail & the other back to the tank. The back to tank line goes through a pressure regulator built into the tank access port lid. Pressure is maintained by the pump, the check valve and the pressure regulator.

Thoughts...

anyone..?

Can I install a check valve in the engine bay before the fuel rail instead of under the car?

Is this hard on your fuel pump to have the check valve spliced in? Since it takes whatever amount of pressure to open it up?

Something to consider as a reason not to fit a check valve too close to your fuel rail - that is better to fit near your fuel tank - is that with a performance/race car that sits around a lot, you may want to let it turn over a bit before it starts to build up some oil pressure before it starts. An alternative is to disconnect your crank angle sensor, dizzy, plugs etc. (Some use oil accumulators or I use a power-drill powered filter pump). Also if running E-85, may be better to not even have a check valve as if fuel drains back into tank it's not sitting in fuel rail potentially damaging injectors.

My car starts up on the 2nd crank. If I let it prime longer on the first time itll crank a little longer and barely fires. I dont notice reduce mileage, stutter, stalling. It runs fine once on. Only started recently once the temperature dropped drastically these past days on the east coast. Side note, I do use royal purple addictive from time to time so idk if my fuel filter is dirty? If I leave it for a few hours and the engine is cold I'll have to crank twice again. When hot I dont have an issue. If it's the fuel check valve do you know if my dealership mechanic will replace it or was this a DIY that cant be done at a dealership? Please let me know what your initial thoughts are. It's a mazda 3 2012 currently have 148k miles and no check engine light. Will test fuel pressure soon too, just got one from AutoZone. The more videos I watch and more I read online, the more different things I think it could be. Someone said it could be a leaking fuel injector too if the pressure drops away once the engine is off but I dont smell gas. I can fire it up 2-3 hours later (barely) on the first prime. Any advice would help but after watching this I think it's the valve too. Thanks for your video and time!

By installing the new check valve this way, could there be any issue from an air bubble being created between the new valve and the leaking valve at the fuel filter? Or would that air bubble be gone for some reason by the time the flow gets to the injectors?

Looks like a great solution. However, I have a question: Does the new fuel check valve place additional strain on the fuel pump that would result in early fuel pump failure? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.

hola buenisimo el video queria saber si se puede colocar la valvula antiretorno en la manguera de retorno de gasoil que sale de la bomba inyectora , por que le puse una valvula antiretorno como mostra en el video y cuando lo para enpieza a aparecer el aire tengo una manguera trasparente

Kaç mm Lik bu çek valf

Yout video has very poor lighting.

Since its cheap and easy to install is it worth installing one just for the sake of it

Gasoline/e85 compatible?

wonder why the pressure came down from 43 to 39 so fast

Exalant video

Interesting…

Hi Andrew,
Great video, I have one question: if the fuel pump check valve has failed, isn't there enough fuel in the rail to start the engine? Also is it best to install the new inline check valve closer to the gas tank or the fuel rail? Thanks so much

Can u pls help me iam facing a issue like i also have to crank 4-5 times in morning and the engine even produce weird noise like misfires (even in summer ) and whenever i park my car for 3-4 hours and after that when i try to start my car i have to crank 3-4 times but during the day when engine is bit hot after running there is no such issue and car starts immediately in half crank

my fuel pressure is at 60PSI when running but instantly drops to 0PSI when I kill it. Priming the pump it doesnt prime at all. the fuel gage goes crazy on the reader. also seems like my jeep eats gas pretty bad. Should I do this or just replace the fuel pump, seems like the PSI is high and wondering if thats causing increased fuel consumption?

It didn’t work for me, I did everything right but no luck! I still have to turn the key a few times to prime the pump to start.

That chinesium check valve still operating up today 2024 ?