How to Cut & Refine a Dovetail Mortise Using Chisel and Slick - Timber Framing Online Course Sample

You let us know what the dovetail angles are? Also, how space extra at the various dims. Presumably you’re going to hammer side wedges into the two faces on assembly. As this is a tie beam, we can assume these dovetails are floor joists.

Bloody good!! However I would' take his classes though. I'm 6ft 3inches. It may be an issue

Man, he cut through that wood like a beaver! "Best talent using best tools" is awesome to watch!

Great craftsmanship. Beautiful wood and tools. That's a fine chisel!😊

Why not saw your relief cut down the middle? Wont cut it all but seems like it would help some.

👏👏👏👍

Nice job

At 1.10, what chisel is ye using? Is it the robert sorby?

Are there any videos where you are measuring and marking the wood for cutting the tenon and mortise?

How do these joints hold up with shrinkage?

Nice video! Thanks a lot!👍

Great video, Thank you for the information. The pockets on those shorts are awesome. Could you tell me where to purchase a pair?

love your channel sir... you are doing a service... less and less young men are having craft... such as carpenter...

hope to take your classes in person some day...

We use a hundegger k2 super speed. Nothing by hand. Who should pay it?

Is there any reason why you wouldn't start the center relief cut with the saw as well?

Why not use a router bit? for most of it?

Instead of using skew chisels, why not just clip the corner off the dovetail itself?

To be fair, you can also just buy a pair of regular chisel and grind them yourself into left- and right-hand skew chisels.

This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodglut designs.

Such timber is only (widely) available in Americas. Maybe in Siberia as well. But absolutely not in continental Europe or whereabouts.
Beautiful material!!!!!❤️

Would it have made sense to make the relief cut with the pull saw while you were there?

Is the Japanese slick your preference?

this proves we are all kin to Noah.......

That is one of the nicest pieces of Eastern White Pine I’ve ever seen. Not a knot to be found. Excellent work. I think you were in college when I took the timber framing class in 1994.....Still one of my fondest memories.

Whey don't you saw down the center of the dove tail so you don't have use the chisel?

Hey Shelter! I signed up for the Feb Design build (in person) class and like all good students I'm preparing for class by watching and learning 😀. I'm assuming that particular joint was for a joist or some kind of floor support... after, say 30 years, once both timbers have shrunk to their final sizes, what would one expect to see upon pulling the floor up and inspecting the joint? I know it is common practice (rule of thumb) to leave a small gap at the back of a regular mortise that you intend to peg a tenon into, allowing room for shrinkage of the timber with the mortise without exploding the joint but I would imagine you cut the male half of that joint to fit the dovetail pocket perfectly. Is the hope that both timbers involved in the joint shrink at the same rate, allowing the male portion to slide forward in the pocket as both timbers shrink in width? Since the male end of the joist is very likely smaller in width, how does one accurately compensate for this (especially considering the many varieties of wood species people use in timber framing or even someone using two different species in the same joint)? I'm pondering the same question with regard to the level of the two timbers on which the floor itself is laid upon (after 30 years). Would the top/sill plate shrink more since it is bigger, leaving the joist proud in the joint? Thanks for the video, I'm excited for Feb and gaining the last bit of confidence I need to begin my journey!

Hi guys. Really enjoying your videos. Wondering about the kinds of timber most frequently used for timber framing. Is that post pine? Also, do people in the states usually source the timber from their own properties? 
I'm in Australia, most available trees here are hardwood.

Hi blueberry and Gaius! Is there some level of math I should know and understand before purchasing the online course? I am so excited for the online course. I don’t have the time to take a trip to Maine. And would love to learn timber framing basics.

Why wouldn’t you use a power saw were you knew the angle was exactly perfect?

Bad joint ! Not good, and if you cut it like that how do you make money ? good luck..

Thanks. I have been building furniture for around the home with hand tools only for the past four years. This larger scale looks like a lot of fun. I think I drove by your place two years ago when I was in Maine and visiting Lie-Nielsen. Out of curiosity, how do you test fit the dovetail? It's easy in furniture but given the size of the timber frames I could see where this would be difficult. Are you working to similar tolerances of fit in timber frames as you are to furniture?

Barr Chisel 👍

I am guessing, the beam gets turned 90 degrees and the joists get dropped down into the dovetails?

50% of viewer have not touched a chisel in their life, or just me.

You reeeaaally don't need all the compressed video and sound to show the work. A two-second cut, and on to the next step. The sound of a saw in high speed just sounds like a dentist drill, and I don't know anyone who enjoys hearing that.

Arunda system, Trust me you need this. People and job site conditions will not allow this time consuming process. Thanks for sharing tho.

The. Gut gut.

Can you do this with a angled circular saw cut? Just chisel out the end. Whatever the radius of the blade don't get, you can come in with a chisel against a already registered face? Sorry just stumbled onto this video wasn't sure if this was a all hand tool deal.

Why didn’t you do your middle relief with a similar saw cut on a diagonal?

Good job !!!

Can't wait until January!